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Archive for December, 2009

Dang Honey

Nepal: Land of Rejected Martin Lawrence Tag Lines

Once we got our shit together we headed into town for the day’s next adventure – riding Royal Enfield motorcycles around Pokhara to a couple of sights. Now, Royal Enfields are old post-WWII British motorcycles still manufactured at one of the original plants (and using the original manufacturing equipment!) in India without significant changes until the past few years.  Naturally, the few Royal Enfields available for rent on Pokhara were not exactly current models, so this meant a couple of things.  First, just the sight of these beautiful machines is enough to warm the heart of any motorcycle enthusiast, taking you back to the days when bikes were simpler, you didn’t need a year-long specialist class to handle basic repair and maintenance, and motorcycles were a truer expression of what motorcycles were meant to be.  Second, it meant that these bikes are weird, temperamental as hell, guaranteed to break down, and unless perfectly maintained an almost certain safety hazard, and generally a great reminder of why we consider modern bikes an improvement on those simpler, truer designs.

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Sarangkhot - A Beautiful Sunrise for Food Poisoning

Sarangkhot - A Beautiful Sunrise for Food Poisoning

Well, today certainly proved eventful.  It all began with our normal 5 am wakeup and then breakfast outside our guesthouse in Sarangkot.  We decided to keep it light and stick to toast and Nepali bread, but the imp of the perverse must have been on your Blogger’s shoulder as I buttered up my toast with some of the warm butter sitting on the table – a decision that I have had many opportunitites to revisit, and will cover later in these pages.

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Sarangkot Locals

Sarangkot Locals

Today dawned dark and early, as some confused rooster started crowing a couple of hours before dawn.  No problem for your jetlagged Blogger, but it was still annoying.  Fortunately (or not), the Lady had arranged for us to do a yoga session at 7 am, so we didn’t have too many hours to kill before getting things kicked off.  Now, your Blogger is actually a big believer in, though infrequent practitioner of, yoga, and a nice session of stretches and deep breathing sounded like a good way to kick off the day.  However, we wound up with the “Howling Mad” Murdoch of yogis, so this wasn’t really in the cards.

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On The Way To PokhoraWow – this one turned out to be a hell of a day.  We got an early start, hitting the road at 7:00 with Anup and Tanji.  Final Destination:  Pokhara.  Interim Step:  Boating a river called the Trisuli, a big water Class III / III+ run that Anup believes is the perfect intro to Nepali whitewater.  The run is about halfway between Kathmandu and Pokhara, which in Nepali road terms means 3-3 1/2 hours of some serious driving on what is called a highway but would be a closed fire road anywhere in the States.  I won’t bore you, dear reader, waxing lyrical about the river, but let’s just say it is big.  Like 14-15′ waves in which rafts disappear from peak to trough big, which is both scary and freaking awesome  to a Southeastern boater used to banging off rocks on low volume streams.

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Kathmandu Sadhu

Sadhus - Always Good For Filling In An Empty Spot In A Blog

It’s 8:20 am, the Blogger has been up for 4 hours, and he’s just heard his seventh rendition of some sort of awful hammered dulcimer / pan flute / glockenspiel remake of “Right Here Waiting for You”.  Why, you may ask yourself, would the Blogger find himself in this situation?  Sadly, it’s just one of the perils of being an international man of leisure.  Our arrogance in thinking we had slain the jet lag dragon yesterday accounts for waking up at 4:30, and a 7:30 flight to Kathmandu being delayed to 9:15 due to weather explains hanging out in the departure lounge, but nothing on God’s green earth can explain why anyone would have chosen to remake Right Here Waiting for You regardless of instrumentation.   Amazingly, the bad music didn’t end there, as after we finally made it to the plane we were treated to a musak version of George Michael’s homage to movies set on yachts off the Greek islands in 1973 – the immortal Careless Whisper.  Thankfully, this eventually ended and we finally found ourselves landing in Kathmandu.  And just to get it out of the way, because I know you dear reader, here you go.

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Humayun's Tomb

Humayun's Tomb

After braving Old Delhi traffic again, we headed to Humayun’s Tomb, a really amazing tomb complex containing the tombs of several important Moghuls, including, and I know this is a shock, Humayun.  Humayun was a precursor to Shah Jahan, and his tomb was apparently built by his grieving widow in his honor and is the earliest surviving Moghul building with extensive Arabic architectural elements such as arches and the like.  The tomb is also the model and inspiration for Shah Jahan’s Taj Mahal, a building important in its own right for sharing a name with the legendary American blues musician.  (more…)

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Welcome to Delhi!

Welcome to Delhi!

Thanks to the wonders of Ambien, the Lady and your Blogger awoke fresh, un-jetlagged, and ready for a full day in Delhi.  Today’s plan was complex and required immense coordination and planning:  we planned to hire a driver from the hotel and have him take us around to stuff he thought worth seeing.  And that’s exactly what we did. 

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Hotel DoormanIt has been some time, gentle Reader, since my last report.  No doubt your days were no worse off by the absence, but your Blogger’s certainly were as no posts means no interesting personal travel.  This ends today, however, as the Blogger and the Lady begin a journey to Nepal, via Delhi, with your Blogger staying over in Delhi for a few days at the end for work.  Needless to say, we are thrilled. (more…)

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